Puppies For Dummies - Bestseller

The bestselling guide to making the most of puppy's first year

Bringing home a puppy? This fun, friendly guide to puppyhood prepares you for this tough but terrific time. From the basics -- housebreaking, feeding, training -- to the latest on doggie day care, traveling with a puppy, and the new designer breeds, you get everything you need to help your puppy grow up to be a healthy, playful, well-mannered dog.

Discover how to:
* Choose the perfect puppy for you
* Socialize your puppy
* Stimulate your puppy's growing mind
* Use the latest training tools
* Keep peace between kids and puppies

Price: $19.99

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Understanding Black Labrador Puppies

When I write of a "well-rounded" black Labrador puppy, you may immediately picture a round, roly-poly black puppy. That is not what we normally mean by the term, of course.

Understanding black Labrador puppies begins by grasping the fact that a well-rounded black Labrador puppy is one that has learned to get along with other dogs and with family members (including other pets). It is a puppy that has bonded with his "pack" and fits in well. It has been socialized - but how do you socialize a black Labrador puppy?

Socializing the Black Labrador Puppy

All dogs are social creatures, but few are as social as a black Labrador puppy. A black Labrador puppy loves attention, and wants to get it from everyone and everything. A black Labrador puppy does not want to share, however, and must learn that every member of the "pack" shares. He must learn how to respond to both human and animal members of his new pack.

Understanding black Labrador puppies involves 7 simple steps that help puppies become well-rounded.

1. Puppy Pats

Your black Labrador puppy needs to be patted, touched, and caressed. Most people do this instinctively from the time they get the puppy. Children, especially, touch the puppy in every possible place they can. The more children there are, the more puppy pats your black Labrador puppy will receive. Even if yours is a gun dog, and children are not playing with it, it still needs puppy pats. Let it feel your hand on its ears, its nose, and its paw pads. Get your black Labrador puppy accustomed to being touched and patted. It will help him fit into his new life. While you're at it, teach children how to treat the puppy.

2. Puppy Playtime

It is important that you and your black Labrador puppy have several playtimes each day. If possible, give him at least one in the morning and one in the evening, as this will establish a pattern for future exercise times. Teach your black Labrador puppy that you are his friend. Play fetch. Take a toy away, teaching the importance of sharing. Do not let him take it back in an aggressive manner. Hide a toy and let him hunt it.

3. Puppy Rolling Game

Every black Labrador puppy needs to be involved in frequent bouts of the puppy rolling game. This game shows the puppy that his position in your pack is one of submission. When playing with your black Labrador puppy, roll him on his side now and then. Hold him there as you silently count to 10. When you reach 10, remove your hand and let the puppy get up. If he struggles while you're holding him, do not let go. You must not let your black Labrador puppy overpower you, or he will believe he is the pack's dominant member.

4. Share-a-Puppy

A big part of understanding black Labrador puppies is recognizing that they need a wide circle of acquaintances. When you get your pup, note his age in a notebook. Subtract it from 24 weeks. If your puppy is 8 weeks old, you would subtract 24 - 8 = 16. In those weeks (whatever number you wrote), you need to share your puppy with at least 100 new people. If you wrote 16 weeks, set a goal of having your puppy meet 6-7 new people each week. Keep track so you know it is happening. Simply have strangers hold your black Labrador puppy, and touch it. Hand it back and forth carefully so it does not fall.

5. Share-a-Meal

A black Labrador puppy can quickly learn to be protective of his food dish. If left to natural instincts, he may become hostile when others come near his bowl. To avoid this, share a meal by sitting or standing close to the bowl when the pup is eating. Have other family members do the same. Teach your black Labrador puppy that his food is safe even when someone is very near.

6. Puppy Home School

From the time you get your black Labrador puppy, teach him every day. He is old enough to learn basic commands such as come; down; drop it; leave it; and sit. Avoid yelling at the puppy or punishing it. There are good Labrador training courses available on the Internet. Order one and use it faithfully.

7. Puppy Support Group

Please understand that a black Labrador puppy needs the constant support of everyone in his home. Life is full of exciting things, as well as frightening things. When a garbage truck comes banging down the street, he will tuck his little tail between his legs and run for cover. What do you do. You - and everyone else present - act as though nothing happened. Your black Labrador puppy will notice that he is the only one running. He will soon decide that, if no one else is afraid, the sound of garbage trucks is not important.

Understanding black Labrador puppies is an ongoing process, but these 7 steps will give you a good start.

?2007, Anna Hart. Anna Hart invites you to read more of her articles about lovable Labrador Retrievers at http://www.lovablelabradors.com Anna has also posted additional information on that site about black Labradors. If you would like more information on black Labrador puppies, pay Anna a visit now.

Puppy Socialization, Raleigh NC - What it is, How to Do it and Why Puppies Need It

When your puppy first comes home, his mind is a blank slate. He knows nothing about the world except what you show him. Puppies are not born understanding the world around them, what traffic is, what objects such as worms or leaves are, how to cope with people, cars, other pets or noises. These are things you must expose puppy to, ensuring that he has positive experiences with each exploration. All the sights and sounds we take for granted in our world are novel to a puppy...he's never seen any of it! Introducing him to all of these things in his environment is no small task but it's the most important thing you'll ever do for your puppy.

Puppies need to be socialized between 4 and 16 weeks of age. A puppy's brain is most accepting of new experiences between 4 and 12 weeks of age making this the critical period for socialization. In the following 4 weeks, the socialization window starts to close. If socialization doesn't start until after this period, the puppy will be socially handicapped. After four months of age, when the socialization window closes, it's much more difficult to influence a puppy's opinion and attitude. Of course, the puppy can still learn, but it is infinitely harder because the puppy has to unlearn inappropriate responses such as fear or reactivity. For example, if a puppy is not exposed to crowds prior to four months of age, he may be so paralyzed with fear of the sights and sounds that crowds make, it may be impossible, or at best, uncomfortable for him to cope in this situation. If the puppy is exposed to crowds prior to four months of age and introduced in a positive way, he will accept crowds as "normal in his environment" and not be reactive or nervous about it. The key is to make sure your puppy gets exposed to everything he may ever be exposed to during his lifetime, while he is very young. Introducing puppy to new stimuli and experiences is critical to having a well-adjusted and behaviorally healthy adult dog.

Prevention is far better than rehabilitation! A properly socialized puppy is well adjusted and makes a good companion. It is neither frightened by nor aggressive towards anyone or anything he would normally meet in day-to-day living. An un-socialized dog is a liability. Typical behaviors of an unsocialized dog include fear and stress disorders, fear biting and fearful aggression. Unsocialized dogs cannot adapt to new situations and a simple walk around the neighborhood can panic your pet creating hiding behaviors, pulling on the leash to get away from the "scary thing" or offensive aggression (lunging on leash, biting or acting like Cujo to scare the frightening thing away). Don't let this happen to your dog. Start socializing your new puppy NOW!

Vaccinations and exposure risks

Enrolling your puppy in a puppy socialization class is ideal and is typically safe. This is a wonderful opportunity to get your puppy out of the house on a regular basis and expose him to new situations and experiences.

People are sometimes warned not to take their puppies out in public until they are fully vaccinated for fear that the puppy might catch disease. But times have changed and veterinary behaviorists now recommend that you get puppy out and socialize him as soon as he's completed his first round of shots. The risk of life-long behavioral consequences of not socializing a puppy prior to 16 weeks by far outweighs the small risk that puppy may catch something contagious. Behavioral problems are the number one reason dogs are euthanized in this country. And many of these problems would not have presented in the dog if he was properly socialized in puppyhood. Visit the link at the end of this article to read the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior position statement relative to puppy vaccinations and socialization.

The chances of your puppy contracting a disease are rare but you do want to minimize risks. Only take your puppy into controlled environments until he is fully vaccinated. Facilities that hold puppy classes are usually sanitized and prepped specifically for puppies. Puppies are also typically separated from regular dog traffic. Dog parks, dog beaches and any other environment where dogs can run free should be avoided. Numerous diseases are transferred via infected urine and feces so avoid places where puppy can accidentally run through pet waste. Pet stores and boutiques are great places to socialize your puppy but carry him or put him in a cart, not on the floor, until he's fully vaccinated.

Where socialization begins

Puppy socialization should begin at home. When you first bring your pup home, visit your vet for a wellness check. If all is well, begin acclimating your pup to the sounds, sights and smells of his new environment - your home and yard. Be patient with puppy and remember that he's never seen household items like mirrors, TV's, a remote control, etc. His vision will still be blurry and his brain and hearing still developing. While you're introducing puppy to all the items in your home and yard, plan a puppy party. Invite everyone you know to your home for a "meet my puppy" event. Invite the gang over to watch a sporting event so that puppy can see and hear people having fun and getting loud! After a few days, it's time to introduce puppy to the world around him and all the wonders contained within it.

The car ride itself is a novel experience for puppies so don't travel too far the first few times puppy gets in the car. Head into town, carrying your pup around. Bring lots of treats, and ask everyone you see if they want to meet your pup to offer him a treat. There are very few people in this world who can resist a puppy! You want your puppy to think that loud noises, funny smells and silly people roaming the streets are perfectly normal.

If there's heavy traffic, give your puppy a treat as it passes. If a fire engine or ambulance goes by, treat and sound happy. Truck or bus backfires? Treat and act silly! This will get your puppy used to all the noises and potentially scary things that he will inevitably encounter. If you expose your puppy to street sounds and traffic in a positive way he'll be comfortable walking down the street with you despite loud noises and other distractions.

Where to socialize

Dog friendly, open air shopping centers are ideal for puppy socialization. If you live in Raleigh, the Lake Boone Shopping Center is pet friendly. Stop into Unleashed, the Dog Store to introduce your puppy to dog-loving humans and friendly canines and have lunch at a sidewalk cafe next door. This environment allows your puppy to have new experiences while on leash. Quail Corners Shopping Center is also dog friendly. Relax in the patio section of It's a Grind, coffee shop where treats are available for humans and canines alike.

Can't find a shopping center near you? Most Starbucks and Panera locations have outdoor seating where you can sit with puppy while you enjoy coffee or a snack.

Dog bakeries also make a rewarding (and yummy) socialization outing! These specialty bakeries can be found in most cities. If you're in the Raleigh area, Bone Appetit, Three Dog Bakery and Gourmutt's can't be beat for friendliness and scrumptious, homemade treats!

Your veterinarian's office is also an important place to visit. Puppy's early experiences there are surrounded by vaccinations (ouch!) so counter-balance this with positive experiences! Stop in a few times and let puppy hang out by the counter for a few minutes. Feed him lots of treats and let him get loved on by the staff and waiting clients. Now that's a positive experience!

Banks can also be a great training ground for socializing a puppy. Many will let you carry your puppy in and may even offer him a biscuit. Your bank doesn't welcome dogs? Take your puppy through the drive-thru so he can have that experience as well! Speaking of drive-thru's, these can be especially traumatizing for a dog who's never seen one before. Take your puppy through several drive-thru's such as the bank, drug store or fast food restaurant.

People parks (not dog parks) are an excellent place for socialization. As long as dogs are allowed on leash, take puppy and let him see the walkers, joggers, bikers and wild life that abounds. Another benefit to parks is the exposure to multiple flooring surfaces. A typical park offers grass, concrete, gravel, wood and pine straw. Parks such as Shelley Lake in Raleigh offer all of this plus wood-plank bridges, a playground where puppy can meet some kids and of course, the lake. This is a socialization extravaganza!

Make play dates for your puppy where he can socialize one-on-one with a safe and friendly dog. Your puppy should meet and greet numerous dogs in his critical socialization period (30-50 is not unreasonable). Playing with the same dog repeatedly, won't give puppy the social skills or confidence he needs.

Scary Situations

Be careful not to give too much attention if your puppy acts fearful in a situation that is normal. If a bicycle races by and your puppy cowers you will be tempted to pet him and reassure him that "it's ok, you're alright, its ok". If you do this, you are unknowingly praising puppy for his fear and rewarding the behavior. It's best to be silent, not to acknowledge the reaction and move on. When the next bicycle (or other scary thing) comes near, offer a food reward to puppy so he redirects his thoughts from fear to treat.

From 16 weeks through at least one year of age, it is imperative that you make every effort to expand the puppy's environment and expose him to new things. Puppies should be around as many different people and animals as possible. Take them with you when you go for a walk, shopping, or even to work. Encourage your children to bring their friends over to meet the new puppy. Take an obedience or training course where they will meet other dogs... all of this is important.

The list of things to socialize a puppy to include:

People and children of every size, shape and color, especially people wearing hats, sunglasses, beards and uniforms. Other animals but especially dogs, cats, squirrels and rabbits. Odd sounds and sudden, loud noises. You may want to pick up a Puppy Desensitization CD for this purpose.

Things that move and make sound are critically important and include: cars, bikes, skateboards, roller-skates, rollerblades, strollers, vacuum, motorcycles, garbage trucks, mail trucks and buses. City life including car traffic and crowds are essential!

Don't forget to assess your family's hobbies and entertainment preferences. If you're golfers, introduce puppy to the golf bag, spiked shoes, golf hat, etc. If you're boaters, introduce puppy to the boat several times before taking him out on the water. Baseball fans? Let puppy watch his family throw and hit balls. Even better, take puppy to a local children's game and sit in the bleachers with him for 20 to 30 minutes. This is a great new experience for puppy. You can typically find a baseball, soccer or football game every weekend! Anyone up for basketball? Find a public court and sit with puppy (not too close). Let him watch the moving ball and all the frenzied action!

The bottom line is to involve your puppy as much as you can in your daily activities. He will become well-socialized and besides, that's the reason you got him, right?

Resources for additional information: www.avsabonline.org

Paws in Training, Inc. 2010

http://www.pawsintraining.com

Paws in Training provides dog training, dog behavior evaluations, dog consultations and dog education services in Raleigh North Carolina.

What You Should Know About Raising A Litter Of Puppies!

What is involved in raising a litter of puppies? This is a question I am asked quite often. It is certainly a task that should not be taken lightly. That cuddly little puppy is going to be a full grown dog someday soon, and will have an impact on many peoples lives and you want that impact to be a positive one.

I think the first thing you must look at when you began thinking about having a litter of puppies is the sire and dams genetic qualities. You want to be sure you are passing on healthy genetic make-up. To do so you must be certain both parents are free of any genetic faults which may afflict your particular breed. In addition both parents should exhibit very stable temperaments.

Once you have determined that both parents are healthy, and your puppies have arrived successfully,the real task of raising the puppies begins. It will require a level of devotion not unlike a mother's to her newborn child. Though there are many dog breeds the process is the same.

For the first few weeks of a puppies life the dam does much of the work. Most dams will instinctively keep the puppies clean and fed. However, it is up to you to make sure the dam and puppies have a quiet place of their own with an adequate whelping box. The bedding in the whelping box must be kept clean and sanitary. The temperature in the whelping area must be monitored and maintained so the puppies and the dam are comfortable.Probably the most important thing of all at this time is making sure your dam has proper nutrition so she can produce an adequate supply of milk. Only the breeder should handle the puppies in these first two to three weeks of life. But, they should be handled as this establishes an early trust in people.

Puppies eyes began to open at two to three weeks of age and they began to stand on their own. This is when the real work and expense of rearing a litter begins. As the puppies began to display individual character traits their emotional and physical development begins to rely more and more on the breeder and less on their dam. It is at this point that puppies must be handled daily, and handled in a positive manner,so there is never a barrier of distrust created. Puppies are never objects, no matter how many you have in a litter. Each has unique character traits and puppy conditioning by the breeder is equally as important as any other aspect of puppy rearing.

At three to four weeks you will begin the weaning phase. In most cases the dam, shortly after the puppies teeth begin to emerge, will begin to spend less and less time with the puppies. It is at this point that you will begin to supplement your puppies diet. I start off with a mush made from a high quality puppy food which has been softened with a prepared puppy milk replacer. Gradually you will decrease the amount of milk replacer until the puppies are eating their kibble dry. You must always have fresh drinking water available.

Once the puppies are eating on their own on a regular basis the dam will become less vigilant about cleaning up after the puppies and it will now fall to you to see that the puppy area is maintained in a sanitary manner. You have probably moved them out of the whelping box and into a larger area at this point. Make sure this is in a location that makes cleanup relatively simple. You must,at the least,mop several times daily. You may use a diluted bleach solution, but I prefer to use a one-step solution which is a germicide,fungicide, detergent, and deodorant. You can find this at your local animal health store or your vet may be able to help you find it.

Also at weaning time is when most veterinarians recommend beginning your puppies on a routine vaccination and deworming schedule. This is extremely important in maintaining good health in your puppies and will help to guard them against infectious diseases. I recommend consulting your vet for an appropriate schedule.

Now for evaluating and placing your litter. You have probably been unconsciously "grading" your puppies from the day they were born. An experienced breeder is able to see beyond color and markings, looking at things such as bone, head shape, angulation, and other criteria that vary with each breed. But keep in mind that most puppies change dramatically as they develop. Some puppies may show early potential for show or future breeding stock, but some will almost certainly be of pet quality. It is very important for you to be able to recognize this in order to properly place each puppy. Personality is also important when placing your puppies. The quieter puppy will not do as well in the show ring as the puppy whose exuberant personality says"Look at me!!"

As well as grading your puppies, you must be able to "grade" prospective owners. I care about each dog I bring into this world and treat it as part of my extended family when I place it in its new home. Some of the things you may want to ask a prospective owner are whether or not they have had pets previously, if so, do they still have the pet and if not what happened to it. This lets you know what type of other pets the puppy will be around and how responsible the owner was with their previous pet. You will need to know what they intend to do with the puppy. Show, house pet, agility candidate? Will someone be home with the puppy and if not will someone at least be able to come home at lunchtime to check in on the puppy? Will the puppy stay in the house or outside in a pen. What kind of space do they live in? A small apartment or a house with a fenced yard. Some breeds are well suited to apartment living while others require more space in which to exercise. Does the new owner fully understand the time and financial commitment they are making. Give them an average of annual costs, including, vet visits, grooming, food, and supplies. Also let them know, that while we never want it to happen, sometimes things occur which require emergency vet care and this can be quite costly. If the future owner is young ask what their plans are for the future, while it may be awkward, you want to know that your puppy is going to a stable home.

Last, but certainly not least, is having a well thought out contract for everyone to sign. Include things such as any health guarantee you are prepared to offer and, if the puppy is being sold as a pet, require proof of spay/neuter by four months of age. Require appropriate vet care throughout the life of the dog. Another thing a conscientious breeder will include in a contract is a clause which states the breeder be afforded first opportunity to acquire the puppy back if the owner is unable to keep the dog for ANY reason. If it is not feasible for the breeder to take the dog back they will be willing to help find a new home for the puppy. These are just a few of the things you may want to consider putting in a contract. But always insist upon a written agreement, even if the new owner is a friend or family member. It just avoids confusion and misunderstandings resulting in bad feelings later on.

Letting your puppies go to their new homes is difficult for any caring breeder. You have invested a lot of yourself in each and every one of them. But, when you have taken the time to establish a relationship of trust with the new owners, it can be a very rewarding experience. I receive pictures on a daily basis from satisfied owners who have acquired a puppy from me and it is very heartwarming when you know you have been able to provide that puppy and that family a happy life together.

For more information on raising and registering your new puppies make sure to visit the Continental Kennel Club.

This article was featured in the Continental Kennel Club quarterly magazine. http://www.continentalkennel.info

Some Thoughts About Caring For Puppies

Caring for puppies is a big responsibility whether you are a seasoned owner or a new puppy parent. Yes, it gets easier with the second 'child' but the requirements for caring for a puppy or two are the same. This is why before you decide to be a puppy mom or dad, make sure you are committed to doing everything you can to ensure the well-being of your new bundle of fur.

What's for breakfast?

One important responsibility of a puppy owner is to feed her with healthy, nutritionally balanced puppy food. You can opt for commercially made food products that are either dry (kibble type) or wet (canned). Then there are the natural puppy foods that you can prepare at home or buy from reliable manufacturers. Whichever type of puppy food you choose, make sure to ask for advice from your veterinarian.

Your veterinarian is the best person to tell you what your puppy's nutritional requirements are. This is based on the puppy's age, breed, and health condition. Some puppies are born with skin allergies so it is best to know what natural foods or commercially prepared food products they cannot tolerate.

Before the puppies reach the age of 4 months, feeding is done three times a day. On the fourth month, you can reduce the number of meals to two (breakfast and dinner). Never leave the food bowl out the whole day to avoid eating disorders. Fresh water should be made available to you puppy only until about 7 pm so she doesn't have the urge to go during the night.

ZZZZZZ.

Puppies are like babies...they need lots sleep. Make sure that your puppy has a comfortable bed or a crate. Never allow your puppy to sleep on your bed. Otherwise, she will own that bed and you'll never get her off without a fight. When a puppy is sleeping, don't wake her. Some scientists say that it is during sleep that your puppy's growth and development happens.

It was an accident.

All puppies must be house broken. Puppies usually need to do their business upon waking up in the morning and after naps as well as after meals. Patience and consistence are the keys to training your puppy to go on schedule and at the appointed place. Watch for signs that your puppy needs to go. They usually sniff around at a particular spot or turn around like a carousel. When you see these signs, bring her out for a bathroom break. If you don't want accidents to happen, don't let your puppy loose all day especially if you cannot watch her the whole time.

Puppy pre school.

You are your puppy's first teacher. For her to be a well-adjusted member of your family, puppy training is important. Housebreaking is usually the first thing your puppy needs to learn. Then there is crate training. This involves teaching her that the crate is her special place. In her crate she should have comfortable bedding, a chew toy or two and water just outside it. Another important thing to teach your puppy is wearing a collar and walking on a leash. A puppy that is trained to walk on a leash is a joy to cruise around with in the neighborhood. Leash training is also a foundation for teaching your puppy more advanced commands.

Bad puppy, not!

There is no such thing as a bad puppy, just as there is no such thing as a bad child. Puppies are just being true to themselves. They love to chew, bark, jump up and go whenever and wherever they feel like going. It is your responsibility to train your puppy as to which behaviors are acceptable in your home. Dogs in generally love to please their masters. Therefore, by training your puppy early on what is acceptable behavior and eliminating bad ones, she will grow up to be an adult dog who's main mission in life is to please you.

Do I look good?

Grooming is also part of caring for puppies. Puppies don't really need to be bathe unless they rolled around in the mud. You can use a damp terry to wipe away dirt and a dry one to well, dry her coat. For puppies will long and curly hair, comb the tangled fur. Use a nail clipper specifically for puppies to cut those sharp little nails. Brush your puppy's teeth with a little doggie toothpaste and a puppy toothbrush. Clean her ears once in awhile.

What's up doc?

Make sure to bring your puppy to your friendly neighborhood vet for vaccinations as well as well-puppy check-ups. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to seek your vet's advice.

Everyone wants to shower their puppies with love and care. To love your puppy means to care for her needs. This can, at times prove expensive (veterinary visits and food) and downright tiring (training and cleaning up after a pup). However, the love that a puppy returns to her owner can never be measured. With a bit of patience, understanding and consistency in how you care for her, you will be rewarded with a healthy, well-behaved and extremely loyal friend for life.

About the Author:
Bob Leland is a puppy training expert. For more great tips on caring for puppies, and their proper training visit loving touch puppy training.

Leash Or Lead Walking Made Easy For Puppies and Dogs

Training your puppy to walk on the leash should be done gradually and in stages just like any other form of training. Some people put a collar and leash on their puppy and walk out the front door and expect their puppy to just trot along beside them. You wouldn't tell your puppy to stay and walk across a busy highway and not expect him to follow you. Leash training should begin at home either inside the house or in the backyard and it should be done slowly.

How do I get my puppy to wear his collar and leash?

Buy a very light weight collar and leash for your puppy. Even if he is going to be a large dog, start with a collar and leash that won't be too heavy and won't irritate him too much. There are many different designs available from your local pet shop.

Put the collar on loose enough so that it is not rubbing against his neck and tight enough so that it can't be pulled over his head. Let your puppy get used to the collar. If he starts scratching at it, tell him not to with your voice (use a gruff and sharp sound) and redirect him onto something positive like a toy or a game of ball. Attach the leash and just your puppy drag it around with him. Do not leave your puppy on his own with the leash attached in case he comes to some harm.

When it is feeding time, clip your puppy's leash to his collar and hold it above the ground while he is eating. Eating is always an enjoyable time for puppies and by having his leash attached he will associate this pleasure with his leash.

Start practise walking

When your puppy is ready, pick up his leash and lead him around the house or backyard. Use a high pitched voice to encourage him and slap your hands on your legs. It is best to start this kind of training where there are no distractions. Distractions take your puppy's attention away from you and what you want him to do. Children, the cat, other dogs and food are all forms of distractions. When your puppy is trotting along beside you, use his name to encourage him. Give him treats to keep his attention on you and to reward him for walking nicely.

When you think your puppy is ready, take him outside. For the first few walks, just walk him up and down the street or stay in your backyard. Choose different times of the day when there will be different things for your puppy to get used to. There will be many distractions on the street so you might find that he isn't paying as much attention to you. You can either persevere or wait for your puppy to get used to these new distractions or you can take a step back and work on his leash walking inside where there are no distractions.

What if my puppy is frightened when we are out walking?

Many ordinary things that you see every day may startle your puppy and make him scared. These might be loud trucks, trains rumbling past or even the warning beeps of a pedestrian crossing. Remember dogs have excellent hearing so normal sounds to us may seem much louder to them. Also, your puppy may be coming in contact with things that to him are exceedingly strange but normal to you. Things like plastic bags moving in the wind or large fallen logs may startle your puppy. When you are walking for the first few months, be prepared by looking ahead.

Regardless of what has startled your puppy, it is important that you don't tell your puppy that it is OK to be frightened and that he does have something to fear. A fearful dog will attack if it is under threat and if it can't attack the thing that has made it frightened, it may attack you. This is called re-direction and happens often with family dogs that have been frightened who have never attacked or bitten before.

It is important to be Cool, Calm and Confident when you are out walking with your dog. He will be looking to you - at the other end of the leash - for guidance. He wants you to tell him how to behave. If you cuddle and talk to him like you would a child or baby, he will learn that there is something to fear and that he should keep displaying signs of fear. A fearful dog may become an aggressive dog if not checked at a young enough age and will bite and attack. You don't want this to be your dog.

Look directly at your puppy; talk in a firm voice; even pat the side of your leg and encourage him to keep walking. If you can't, hold him in a sit and wait for whatever he is fearful of to pass. If you can, don't pick up your puppy. Let him know by your actions and your voice that he has nothing to fear and that he is safe.

Why is taking your dog for a walk important?

Walking our puppies is one of the most important things we can do and is as important as proper nutrition and providing a safe and warm sleeping area. It is much more than just getting some exercise. It gives your puppy the opportunity to start socializing with other dogs, animals and objects as mentioned above.

Give your puppy time to stop and sniff where other dogs have been to the toilet. Dogs have an amazing sense of smell and can read lots of different information from just sniff of another dog's urine. It might seem yuk to us, but they can find out what other dogs are in the area; if they are boys or girls; if girls, whether they have had pups or not; the age of the other dog and lots more. Dogs are very territorial so when you start taking your puppy out for walks, he's going to want to know what other dogs are in the surrounding area.

Walking also simulates hunting in the pack. Remember: your dog is closely related to a wolf so he will think and act like one. If you have a dominate dog it is important that you leave the house and go through the gate first when going out for walks. This is one technique used to establish pack leadership in your dog's mind. When out walking, your dog will want to explore his environment by smelling and seeing and even tasting whatever he can find.

It is not a good idea to let your dog pick up and eat anything he finds on the ground so don't be worried about introducing a 'leave' command when you're out walking. It is best to take your young puppy out for short walks more often than one long walk. They do become tired very quickly and you don't want them to resent going for a walk.

My Puppy Just Doesn't Walk Properly

Your puppy will pull on the leash and weave in front of you when you first start training him to walk. This is annoying and can be dangerous if you trip over him. Here are some tips that will help:

Keep the leash short enough so your puppy can't run in front too far

Keep the leash in two hands across the front of your body. It will give you more strength.

For large breed puppies or puppies that are very strong; loop the leash around your thumb and close your fist around the two lengths. This will give you added strength and more control over your dog

If you want to use treats, put your hand beside your knee and wait until he reaches your hand, then treat and praise him for good walking

Always praise and reward your puppy for doing the right thing the second it happens; like all good training timing is essential

Use your voice to correct your puppy back to your side

Do not yank on the leash. If he is pulling too far ahead, give it a sharp tug and release it again immediately. You don't want to get into a pulling competition with your puppy because you will get tired a lot quicker than he will

You could stop and make your puppy wait each time he lunges ahead

You could try turning him around and walking in the opposite direction when he lunges ahead


Stop at the kerb and get your puppy to sit and wait. Give him a 'walk' or release command and start walking again. Your puppy is never too young to learn road safety.

Whatever you do; don't start nagging your puppy either by yelling all the time or pulling on the leash all the time. Your puppy will develop a sense of learned helplessness and simply switch off and not listen to you at all. When training your puppy, choose a length of the street that you are going to train him; it might be until the next road or the shop on the corner. Make him sit and then give him a 'walk' command.

When you have walked along this distance and done some training, regardless of how successful you think you have been, put your puppy into a sit and give him a 'release' command. This way he will come to understand that there are times he has to listen and learn and other times he can just be a normal puppy.

As your training skills improve, you can lengthen the distance to do your training but you will have to be patient. There are so many interesting and new things to see and smell and taste that it takes time for your puppy to understand what the long thing hanging off his collar is for and why you think it is so important.

Your puppy may also refuse to walk and just sit and wait for you to pick him up. Don't forget that the outside world if full of weird and wonderful things and your puppy may be over whelmed by them. If this happens, it would be best to take your puppy back inside and resume leash training there. You can use your voice to encourage your puppy and call him to you, but it is not a good idea to pick him up and carry him. He will get used to this and expect you to do it every time.

Remember: always give your puppy the opportunity to correct his behaviour and do the right thing. It is up to you to teach him what is acceptable and what is not. Reward acceptable behaviour; discourage unacceptable behaviour by using loud unpleasant noises, withdrawal of attention or treats or leaving your puppy on its own. Never hit or strike your puppy; you will only be teaching him that violence is an acceptable behaviour in your pack and he may use it on other pack members or friends including children.

Sue Day is a dog behaviourist with experience in puppy training, dog agility, obedience, and re homing shelter dogs. Sue owns Messy Pawz Dog Training which advocates positive training methods. Sue has made a lot of information available for free on her website: http://www.messypawz.com.

How to Stop That Puppies Chewing?

Puppies love to chew things, let's face it we have all had to deal with chewing puppies at one time or another. So you're trying to stop puppies chewing! How are you going to get it into his little head that furniture costs money and your hands, arms or any exposed body part are not chew toys for puppies. If you are like me, then it's kind of difficult to continuously harass the cute little pup for doing what is natural to him. Key to solving this issue is to ensure your new furry friend does not get too bored and also redirect his attention to less expensive or painful alternatives. So, the key to stop puppies chewing would be to let him chew, but find alternatives. The pup needs to teeth anyway and this puppies chewing is part of his teething process.

Why to Stop Puppies chewing

Puppies chewing behavior seems like natural behavior, right? Well yes and no. I suppose we can say yes puppies chewing behavior is normal, but no, puppies chewing on me or my valuable stuff is not normal. Bear in mind puppies don't deal in dollars and cents, so your expensive Persian rug or possessions are just chew toys or puppies. A good reason why you would want to redirect or stop puppies chewing on your valuable items is they cost loads of money. Also, if the puppy is just left to do whatever he wants, this is going to possibly lead to bad dog behavior as the puppy matures. Nip this bad dog behavior in the bud, to save yourself both physically and financially, further down the line. Stop puppies chewing on you or your stuff by providing good and effective alternatives for your puppy.

How to Stop Puppies chewing

You need to stop puppies chewing right away, or as soon as the little guy starts sinking those needle like "chompers" into things. There are some things you can do to stop puppies chewing behavior. For starters never shout loudly at your puppy. Secondly, never hit the puppy for any reason and always try control your anger around the pup. Do not focus your anger on the puppy. These actions will just confuse the young boy and will prevent him from understanding, what it is, he has done to upset you. Dogs and puppies don't see wrong and right like we do. If you want your puppy to grow into a well behaved dog, then some of the following pointers need to be noted.

Bad Dog Behavior Adjustment - This is really going to save your sanity and your back pocket. Do not stop the puppies chewing, but rather when you catch the little guy in the act, replace what he is chewing with suitable chew toys for puppies. When he accepts this and focuses his chewing on the chew toy, give him lots of praise. The pup needs to know that this is good dog behavior and what you expect. As usual you need to repeat this action until the puppy quits his bad dog behavior.
Your Puppy must be kept Busy - These little guys get bored very quickly. A bored puppy is going to chew, oh yes, it's like eating sweets for kids. Sure enough, teething will bring on puppies chewing more than usual to alleviate the pain and irritation associated with puppy teething. Make sure your puppy gets regular workouts. A tired puppy is going to chew a lot less and he will be a lot healthier for it as well. Make sure there are enough distractions for the puppy. There are loads of chew toys for puppies that you can purchase or just make up from old junk. The key is to keep the puppy interested in his chew toys and not your stuff if you want to stop puppies chewing. If you are home, play as much as possible with the little guy. I'm sure you will have a string of volunteers to do this in your home anyway. Puppies are just great to play with.
Puppy Crate Training - If your job or daily routine means there is nobody at home during the day you are going to have to come up with some solution to stop puppies chewing. Crate training is a good idea here, as it will make your puppy become accustomed to a more confined space. That way you can limit access to your whole home and perhaps restrict your dog's habitat to one room of your home whilst there is nobody at home. Make sure to provide plenty of interesting chew toys for puppies and also be sure that he cannot tip over his water supply or worse still become trapped in it. Imagine leaving a toddler to his own devices for an entire day, I don't think that would be viable, but just imagine. Then use the same apprehension and preparation when doing this to your puppy.
Aversion Sprays to stop puppies chewing - Maybe you did not know this but puppies and grown dogs simply do not like the taste of Bitter Apple or Cayenne Pepper. There are plenty of good sprays available which you can buy. To stop puppies chewing, simply spray the valuable items that you do not want puppies chewing with these sprays. The puppy will soon lose interest in chewing the sprayed items as the taste will not be good to him.

In order to save your fingers and your possessions you will need to do some or all of the above to stop puppies chewing. In a nutshell it's all about redirecting what gets chewed and what is ignored.

Most important to stop puppies chewing - Consistency

In order to really stop puppies chewing you need to remove any confusing signals that you may inadvertently be sending to him. For instance, don't give your pup stuffed chew toys for puppies and then expect him to ignore your children's stuffed toys or any other stuffed toys that may be in his area. The puppy is not going to be selective. He will just chew all stuffed toys he can get hold of, because they are ok to chew on, aren't they? Rather remove all temptation from your pups area. Yes be stern with your pup, he needs to know who the Alpha Dog is. But also be fair. The pup just wants to please you and if you let him, he will do even more than that. He will make your belly ache with laughter at some of his silly antics. Puppies are really great fun and please always appreciate that innocent commitment and dedication that they give you, return the favour. Good luck with your puppies chewing and may all his chewing be on the right stuff.

Hi, my names Derek and I am a Dog Lover and Enthusiast. Why don't you join me in my quest for knowledge about "man's best friend" at my website http://www.besthappydog.com/ where I share my insights as well as many experts advice.

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Thanks for reading my article. Cheers for now.

Regards
Derek